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What Is Fair Trade? What Does the Label Mean? (And Fashion Brands That Use It)

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A Guide to Fair Trade Fashion

Fast fashion is causing serious harm to garment workers and the environment. In addition to being one of the most polluting industries in the world, human rights are constantly ignored, threatening the lives of millions of women in developing countries.

This unethical and unsustainable way of producing clothes has to stop!

As consumers, we have the power to “vote with our dollars”. We can show brands what we are willing to support and what we condemn.

A great way to stand up for a more ethical and sustainable fashion is to choose fair trade clothing whenever we can!

Fortunately, the number of fair trade products has been increasing significantly in the past decades. There are also many fair trade labels, but it’s sometimes difficult to know what they mean and which ones are legitimate.

If you need guidance to choose more ethical products, here is a complete blog post about the fair trade movement!

It will help you learn about the different fair trade labels, and will offer an insight into several fair trade certified brands.

What is fair trade?

Fair trade is a movement that advocates for fairer wages for small producers, protects them from over-taxation, and ensures they have access to export markets.

It’s also promoting safe and humane working conditions and the eradication of forced labor.

Fair trade implies that producers have more sustainable farming practices, and it advocates for social justice among communities. Transparency and gender equality are keys elements at the core of the movement.

In short, fair trade aims to protect the labor and human rights of workers, alleviate poverty in developing countries, and encourage more sustainable ways of producing goods.

How does it work?

The main reason why workers can get paid higher wages than in the traditional trade system is that the supply chain between the producer and the consumer was scaled down to a minimum.

There is a direct trading relationship between small producers and fair trade organizations. Consumers can buy products directly from the producer, which means that no, or few, intermediaries were paid in between.

Producers get paid a guaranteed minimum price and a premium. That premium is invested in development projects like building schools or hospitals. It is also often used to improve basic infrastructures like the accessibility to safe drinking water.

History of the fair trade movement

The fair trade movement was born after the Second World War. In 1946, American businesswoman Edna Ruth Byler started importing needlecrafts from low-income women in Puerto Rico and began selling them in the United States.

She paved the way for the first fair trade organizations: founded respectively in 1946 and 1949, the Mennonite Central Committee and SERRV International aspired to develop fairer supply chains to help small producers in developing nations.

In the 1960s, the movement became popular in Europe when NGO Oxfam started selling in the United Kingdom handicrafts made in developing countries.

In 1968 at the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development, the importance of developing a more equitable trade between developing and developed countries was highlighted.

The slogan “Trade not aid” became widely popular, leading to the spread of the fair trade message around the globe.

More and more companies started selling fair trade goods like tea and coffee, which were the two first fair trade agricultural products. Coffee was the biggest growth engine behind the movement for many years!

In the late 1970s, the North American Trade Organization (now Fair Trade Federation) was founded, gathering different trade organizations, to hold conferences on the subject of fair trade.

The first fair trade label, “Max Havelaar,” was created in 1988. It is an independent certification allowing fair trade products to be sold on a wider scale, not necessarily in fair trade shops only.

The following year, 38 fair trade organizations were brought together to form the International Federation of Alternative Trade (now named the World Fair Trade Organization).

Various other organizations were born during that decade, leading to the creation of the Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International (now Fairtrade International or FLO) association in 1997. It aims to set fair trade standards and certify which products were produced accordingly.

RELATED: Look On The Label | Clothing Certifications Explained

The different fair trade organizations and labels

To this day, there have been a variety of different organizations promoting the principles of fair trade and offering guidance and certification for brands.

Fairtrade International

Fairtrade International (FLO) is the main structure that gathers 24 national Fairtrade labeling organizations.

FLOCERT is the main certifier for Fairtrade International. It audits producers to check if they comply with the organization’s standards by looking at every level of the supply chain.

If a product is certified “Fairtrade” (in one word), it can then display the FAIRTRADE Mark.

The FAIRTRADE Mark applies to products with a single ingredient, like sugar, cotton, fruits, or cocoa. If a product has multiple ingredients, all of which are certified Fairtrade, then the product is labeled with the FAIRTRADE Mark with a black arrow on the right.

But if, for instance, only one or two ingredients in the product are certified Fairtrade, the product shows a white FAIRTRADE Mark that indicates which ingredient is Fairtrade.

Fair Trade USA

Another organization that certifies fair trade products is Fair Trade USA, which recently became independent of Fairtrade International. It has its own certification standards but has a similar mission to label products that comply with the principles of fair trade. Their label “Fair Trade Certified” is only given to products in the United States.

Like Fairtrade International, Fair Trade USA can also give a specific label for multi-ingredient products. If not all the ingredients are fair trade, it indicates on the logo which one is Fair Trade Certified.

The label can also show a percentage: for instance, if it indicates 30%, it means that 30% of the ingredients in that product are Fair Trade Certified.

To show their commitment to fair trade, brands can also choose to join organizations like the World Fair Trade Organization and the Fair Trade Federation.

The World Fair Trade Organization

While Fairtrade International and Fair Trade USA certify products and ingredients, the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) aims to analyze the entire business.

This means that it looks at the business model, the structure of the company, the whole supply chain, as well as other key elements.

The organization checks if the company truly implements the 10 Principles of Fair Trade. If it does, its products are certified with the label “Guaranteed Fair Trade”.

The Fair Trade Federation

The Fair Trade Federation, on the other hand, is not a certifier, but a network of businesses in Canada and the United States. It’s a trade association that promotes and helps North American companies that are applying fair trade principles.

If their logo is shown on a product, this means that the company is a member of the Federation, and it’s meeting its fair trade standards.

Multiple organizations, multiple labels

Another common fair trade label worth mentioning is “Fair For Life”. It is a certification program that aims to promote fair trade and social accountability. It can certify each step of the production process of a product, as well as an entire company!

Numerous labels and organizations are certifying fair trade products. They’re a reliable indicator of the brand’s ethical and sustainable practices!

As consumers, we should be aware that some brands are advertising their products as fair trade with no official certification. We have no guarantee that they truly follow fair trade principles. So it’s important to do your research before buying a product!

6 fashion brands selling fair trade certified products

Fortunately, there are many brands available to us with official certifications we can trust. For instance, here are a few fashion and homeware brands you may be interested in checking out!

Yabal

Yabal is an NGO founded in 2005 to help two Guatemalan communities that were affected by a hurricane. It started a fair trade weaving project offering jobs with fair wages to dozens of women in the highlands of Guatemala.

Yabal sells handmade fashion accessories and home decor items, and profits are reinvested in social programs in their communities.

The NGO is a member of the World Fair Trade Organization and the Fair Trade Federation, and its products are made from sustainable materials.

For a more in-depth review of the brand, check this blog post out!

Pact

Pact creates ethically made clothes for women, men, and children. It also sells quality baby clothing, as well as bedding.

Most of its clothes are made from GOTS organic cotton, and they’re produced in Fair Trade certified factories.

What I like about Pact aside from their commitment to sell sustainable products is that it’s fairly affordable compared to other fair trade brands. That’s a great bonus when you’re trying to shop consciously on a budget!

use code SustainablyChic20 for 20% off

People Tree

Using traditional artisan skills, People Tree is creating women’s clothing and accessories made from sustainable materials such as organic cotton, responsible wool, and Tencel.

People Tree is GOTS certified and was the first fashion brand to be awarded the World Fair Trade Organization product label. Its clothes are dyed with low-impact dyes, without harmful azo chemicals.

The company created the People Tree Foundation which aims to offer training and support to farmers and artisans in developing countries. It also promotes environmental initiatives and fair fashion practices.

No Nasties

No Nasties is an Indian brand that makes clothing for women and men. All of its products are vegan and made from 100% organic cotton. It is also the first clothing brand to be Fairtrade certified in India, and its products are sent in zero plastic packagings!

For each clothing item you buy from this brand, the company is planting a tree in the same area where it’s growing its organic cotton.

No Nasties also created a non-profit called Once Upon A Doug. It employs women to upcycle factory waste fabric and recycle post-consumer clothing to create fashion accessories.

Etiko

Etiko is an Australian B-corporation that was the first in the southern hemisphere to become Fairtrade certified. It’s selling clothes and footwear for women, men, and children.

Winner of the 2016 Australian Human Rights award in the business category, Etiko aims to advocate for the human rights of people working in exploitative industries. The brand also won the Fairtrade Certified Product of the Year award in 2013 and received the grade A+ in the Australian Ethical Fashion report in 2019.

Etiko clothing is produced with organic cotton, and shoes are made from a blend of FSC certified rubber and recycled rubber.

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Raven + Lily

Raven + Lily is a 100% women-led B-corporation that creates bags, jewelry, and home goods.

The company gives 1% of its sales to organizations that share the same ethos, and it is a member of the Fair Trade Federation. It is making sure that it’s creating a respectful workplace by giving living wages to its workers and a 30-day paid leave.

Raven + Lily is creating products using handcraft techniques and regionally sourced natural materials.

The brand also upcycles scrap pieces of leather into new handbags and includes upcycled glass and brass in its jewelry and homeware lines.

Conclusion

There are many organizations and labels certifying products and businesses that follow fair trade principles.

They help consumers understand which brands are contributing to paying small producers fair wages, helping alleviate poverty in developing countries.

A fair trade label is also proof that the production process isn’t harming the environment, involving sustainable farming and manufacturing practices.

So if you're looking for more ethical and eco-friendly goods or clothes, fair trade products are an amazing option for you!

If you already buy fair trade clothes: what is your favorite brand that creates fair trade certified fashion?

About the Author:

Eva Astoul is a French freelance writer, specializing in content related to sustainability, simple living, and a growth-focused healthy lifestyle.

She runs her own blog, Green With Less, to inspire people to live a more minimalist and sustainable life.

Fabrics & Certifications2Eva AstoulMay 12, 2021Comment

What is Hemp Fabric, Why It's Sustainable & Ethical Clothing Brands Who Use It

image from Valani
*This post contains affiliate links. As always, views are genuine and brands are truly loved. Thanks for supporting the brands who are working to make this industry a fairer and cleaner place!*

What is Hemp Fabric?

Hemp is a bast fiber which comes from the woody stalk of a larger plant. It is celebrated as a particularly sustainable material, which can be used to make t-shirts, towels, knitted garments, socks, bed sheets and all sorts of other products. But why is hemp sustainable, and how is the material made?

How Can Hemp Fiber Be Used?

Before we get into the details of how hemp is made, and what that means for the planet, where are we likely to see hemp fiber? Hemp is a more coarse fiber than one like cotton, so often we see the two fibers blended together as one material. For example, it's very common to see hemp and organic cotton blend t-shirts and underwear made by more sustainably minded brands. With a similar texture to linen, some bedding can be made of hemp, too. Hemp is also able to be woven into thicker materials that make up sturdy canvas bags and rugs, or lighter tweed and plaid styled skirts. For the winter months, hemp can be knitted into yarn - also often blended with other plant fibers - for scarves, sweaters and beanies.

What is a Hemp Plant?

Hemp plants are able to produce all sorts of interesting and useful products, from seeds and oil used in both skincare and food products to concrete, paper, bio-plastics, fashion fibers and beyond. The possibilities with this plant really can seem endless!

Let’s get into the technicalities of what this plant really is. The first thing to note is that hemp plants are not marijuana plants. These are technically the same plant species, but they have been bred for different traits and purposes. Cannabis plants have higher levels of THC, which is the substance that can alter a person’s mental state. Legally, a hemp plant has below 0.3% THC content in dry weight. This is important to understand because while hemp and cannabis do not have the same psychoactive potential, hemp growth is strictly regulated and still sometimes banned because of their shared species type. The legal limitations of hemp growth are unfortunate because the many sustainable products hemp can be turned into are less common than they perhaps could be.

When you compare plants grown for ‘narcotic’ purposes and plants grown for their fiber, the former has a thicker, hard center, while the latter has more bast, with a more hollow center. This is so that more energy can go towards the growth of the fiber bundles of bast - which is what hemp material is made from.

Another interesting element to hemp plants and production is that, at the moment, farmers generally cannot produce hemp seed and seed oil products alongside hemp fiber. This is partially to do with the sex of the plant, which alters the thickness and length of fibers, and because harvesting hemp for fiber normally takes place before seeds would have grown enough to be harvested themselves.

How is Hemp Material Made?

Once hemp crops are harvested, the bast fibers basically need to be peeled off of the stem. This process is called retting. Traditionally, this could be done naturally, with fibers being laid out and weathered over up to a month, so that the wooden center and the bast fibers which are bonded together, can separate out. In this natural method, part of the plant decomposes, making it easier for the fibers to be pulled off the stem and apart.

Nowadays, it’s much more common for hemp retting to take place in a more controlled and mechanical way, using enzyme sprays and chemicals, which is more environmentally impactful. After the retting, the fibers are further processed until they can be made into one long thread for weaving or knitting. Most hemp clothing and bedding is dyed (and sometimes bleached to assist with dyeing) beforehand, too.

What Makes Hemp Sustainable?

Hemp can be grown organically with more ease than other fiber crops because it is such a durable, thick-growing plant. Chemicals that might be added to fields of hemp to remove weeds are often not needed because they are ‘strangled’ by the thick hemp plants.

Organic crops have the benefit of ensuring no pesticide or herbicide pollution, which can harm surrounding insect populations and, in turn, ecosystems. Organic crops also do not have synthetic fertilizers put on them to help growth, which can mean less synthetic nutrients runoff, which can potentially cause eutrophication. Eutrophication leads to reduced oxygen levels in natural waterways full of aquatic life. Manure used as organic fertilizer contains phosphorus that can also lead to the same eutrophication risks.

The fullness of hemp plants that prevents weed growth also means that the crop can be very efficient in its use of land, and that it can grow in a range of different soils very well. Land use efficiency is critical to sustainability because the more land we use for agriculture, the less land we have to support a biodiverse array of plant and animal life.

Hemp can also be grown as a rain fed crop, meaning that it’s grown with no more water than comes out of the sky. This is, of course, a positive, considering that freshwater is a precious resource and one which everyone on the planet needs to survive.

Lastly, the fact that hemp is, of course, a plant, means that it is biodegradable. The greatest thing about this is that 100% hemp material clothing, or clothing made of hemp that’s blended with other plant fibers, won’t hang around for thousands of years after we’ve stopped wearing them. In a world full of harmful microplastics that hurt our oceans and land-based ecosystems, this is great news.

The Cons of Hemp

The key word across some of the many reasons hemp is sustainable is ‘can’. Hemp can be grown organically, and it can be grown as a rain fed crop, but that does not mean it always is.

Hemp is grown non-organically and as an irrigated crop across many parts of the world. This means that the water-saving aspect of hemp is not inherent to the plant, but dependent on the particular way it is farmed.

Let’s talk more about hemp that’s organic or not. It’s worth noting that non-organic crops aren’t always terrible. For example, Bt, a naturally occurring bacteria, is applied over organic cotton, but genetically placed into Bt cotton. This makes the Bt cotton, like the cotton grown in Australia, considered non-organic. However, it also removes the need to spray substances that kill insects which Bt protects cotton from. If we’re talking hemp, pesticides and fungicides can be used to prevent the risk of harmful fungi and bacteria growth, mites, beetles and other bug infestations destroying the crop. It is not sustainable for an entire crop to die off - wasting the resources that were spent growing them. At the same time, there are plenty of pesticides and herbicides that are used carelessly and at rates that are unsafe for surrounding life, as well as for workers on farms. If there is no transparency in hemp supply chains about whether it is organic or not, and if not, how these chemicals are used, that can be a real problem.

All of this means that typically grown hemp, according to data from Sustainable Apparel Coalition, is not so much less environmentally impactful to produce than conventional cotton. This is a good reason to look for organic hemp, and hemp that is transparently grown in a mindful way! There’s lots out there, and it’s worth asking brands about.

This is all to say that hemp is a far more sustainable material than so many others, but as with everything, sustainability in agriculture and fashion is a little more complicated than it may first seem!

Ethical, Sustainable Brands Using Hemp Fabric

There are a whole lot of brands who use hemp to create more sustainable clothes. Below, we’re going to look at just a handful of the brands ethically producing garments with a lower impact on the planet.

salvos

Salvos always works to have low environmental impact in their material and garment production, and uses socially responsible labor practices. We love that.

One of their newer offerings is a hemp and organic cotton blend t-shirt, with a fun sustainability fact written in small print on the chest.

Wearing this t-shirt, you’ll be able to spread the good word of hemp and sustainable fashion, without talking!

Valani

This beautiful brand is on the mission of Lighter Living. They are mothers and daughters with a stake in our future, and stewards of a planet that needs our help. They believe self love and love for the earth are linked, which inspired them to create a fun and flirty clothing line with the smallest footprint possible. They use hemp for several of their designs, as well as Tencel & Banana. Pictured is the Sineth Hemp Top which has perfectly puffed sleeves & goes great with jeans.

WAMA UNDERWEAR

WAMA is a dedicated brand that produces undergarments like boxer briefs, underwear and bralettes.

Hemp is great to wear in these sensitive areas, because it is breathable, gets softer each time you wash it, and according to the brand, is naturally antibacterial.

WAMA garments are made of a blend of hemp and organic cotton. Most of WAMA’s hemp is grown on small, family run organic farms.

Good Studios

A gorgeous, Ethical Clothing Australia accredited brand, Good Studios uses hemp in a whole heap of extremely good ways - true to name. From 100% hemp bed linen, to hemp and organic cotton blend denim, twill and and jersey garments, this is perhaps one of the most widely styled hemp collections out there.

Pictured is the beautiful Hemp Linen Singlet, which even comes with 100% recycled hemp pulp buttons!

Citizen Wolf

Citizen Wolf pioneers in the made to measure world, helping to reduce fashion waste. Making all kinds of t-shirts, singlets, turtlenecks and other tops, Citizen Wolf is totally transparent, producing garments in Sydney, Australia, many of which can be made with an organic hemp and organic cotton blend.

The organic hemp and cotton that the brand uses is certified to be environmentally and socially responsible.

Outerknown

This radical brand, which is Fair Labor Association accredited, has a range of hemp and organic cotton blend sweatpants, sweatshirts, t-shirts, polos, blouses and other clothes for all genders.

None of their hemp clothing is blended with a synthetic material, meaning it will all biodegrade should it ever leave your wardrobe. In fact, 90% of the materials the brand sources are organic, recycled or regenerated.

Delilah Home

If you’re looking for sustainable hemp sheets, Delilah Home is a great choice—they’re actually the first company in North America to have GOTS organic hemp bedsheets! Since hemp is naturally temperature-regulating, these are great for those who tend to run hot at night.

These award-winning soft and luxurious sheets are 50% thicker than most sheets and with a 180 GSM thread count, they offer the ultimate natural softness. Plus, they're responsibly made in a family-run factory in Portugal using state of art machinery and with higher than Fair Trade wages.

Emma Håkansson is the founder and director of Collective Fashion Justice which seeks to create a total ethics fashion system that prioritizes the life and wellbeing of non-human & human animals, as well as the planet, before profit & production. She has written countless articles on ethics, sustainability, and fashion, and has two books due out over the next two years.

This post is sponsored in part by Salvos and contains affiliate links. As always, views are genuine and brands are truly loved. Thanks for supporting the brands who are working to make this industry a fairer and cleaner place!

Fabrics & Certifications2Emma HåkanssonApril 25, 2021Comment

Get Into GOTS: Why This Certification Matters & Brands Who Use It

What is GOTS?

GOTS is one of the latest fashion industry buzzwords. You may have already heard about it or seen it on your clothing labels, but what exactly is it? What are the benefits to conscious consumers?

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the golden seal of approval for sustainably processed fabric made with organic fibers, typically cotton.

With sustainable organic clothing options becoming more widespread and popular, how can you be sure your fashion choices are truly sustainable and that you’re not falling prey to misleading marketing?

GOTS defines an international set of standards ensuring the organic nature and status of textiles. Providing a credible assurance to shoppers GOTS monitors the entire fashion supply chain. From farming and harvesting of the raw materials through to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing practices.

What makes GOTS-certified items different from clothes that are simply marked as Organic Cotton?

Sadly, not all eco-friendly fibers are made equal. Lack of transparency about how fabrics are processed and dyed means many consumers become subject to Greenwashing.

To the uninitiated, Greenwashing makes garments seem fair and planet-friendly when they really aren’t. For instance, a T-shirt labeled as organic cotton may still be processed in a factory that wastes energy and doesn’t give staff fair working rights.

There’s a lot to bear in mind when switching to sustainable fashion when all you really want is to enjoy your shopping safe in the knowledge that you’re not compromising your values.

In this respect, GOTS has you covered: buying yourself a plain white Tee just got a whole lot more exciting. Simply type “GOTS white T-shirt” into a search engine, and you’ll find a range of online retailers that align with your sustainability goals. Even some of the larger stores are jumping on the bandwagon now.

Buying fashion with GOTS certification means you’re wearing clothing that has undergone stringent examination by global-standard.org.

GOTS items must meet the following criteria:

Clothing is made from 70% or more organically farmed fibers
Only low-impact chemicals are permitted to protect consumer health as well as the environment
Manufacturers have met water and energy consumption targets and procedures
Garment factory workers rights are upheld by the key safety norms and values of the International Labour Organisation

Until the fashion industry improves its supply-chain transparency, GOTS is a reassuring way for fashion-conscious consumers to identify sustainable and ethical clothing. Brands that have achieved accreditation proudly display a certification mark and license number on the removable sales tag and the sewn-in garment label.

While GOTS standards offer strong environmental and biodiversity benefits, they can also help you live a more natural lifestyle by eliminating toxins.

You prefer the idea of organic fruit and veg, right? Why is that? You don’t want to ingest harsh chemicals like pesticides and insecticides that are, according to the World Health Organisation, “known to cause birth defects, cancer, and other serious illnesses”.

For the same reason people prefer not to eat food sprayed with toxins, GOTS is a way to prevent absorbing harsh chemicals into your skin through your clothes. This is because GOTS fabric does not use cotton exposed to glyphosates (pesticides and insecticides), toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde or aromatic solvents. Nor has the fabric been subjected to heavy dyes and post-manufacturing products such as flame and soil retardants. Just think of all those farmers and workers who don’t have to be exposed to dangerous heavy industrial chemicals anymore.

GOTS has taken children’s wear in particular by storm. Today, parents care deeply about their child’s skin and recognize that the surface area of a baby’s skin, relative to body weight, means infants absorb at rates five times greater than adults. Not only is GOTS an easy way to ensure that farmers are paid a decent wage and treated fairly, and that child labor does not form any part of the supply chain, it’s also a great way to ensure you’re not exposing or overloading kids with toxic compounds.

Another benefit forming part of the GOTS mantra is the elimination of plastics. All packaging and swing tags for products carrying the GOTS logo must be made of paper or cardboard certified by the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and made from recycled materials.

GOTS isn’t intended as a mark of luxury or quality, but improvements in manufacture and supply chain mean GOTS-certified clothes are usually far superior to their fast fashion counterparts.

The care that has gone into the fabric is palpable: you can literally feel higher quality material between your fingertips.

GOTS clothes feel different, and they feel better, not only on your skin but also on your conscience. A little piece of luxury for you, the people who made your clothes, and the planet.

sustainable brands using the GOTS certification

gots-certified — Beaumont Organic

They are dedicated to using organic fabrics for their fair trade clothing ranges. Their most popular fabric they use is GOTS cotton. Beaumont Organic has everything from dresses to underwear.

Cassandra Pokorny is a British digital content creator based in the United Kingdom. With a background working in the Robotics sector combined with experience of commercializing academic research-backed Intellectual Property, she now uses her science and technology expertise to write and film content focusing on topics such as green tech, sustainable living and slow fashion.

Fabrics & Certifications2Cassandra PokornyApril 6, 2021 Comment

What is Tencel? (& Where to Find It)

What is Tencel and What Brands Use It

Tencel is a versatile material that can be used in place of other, less sustainable textiles. But what is it actually made of, and what makes it more environmentally friendly? Oh, and where can we shop for it ethically?

How Can Tencel Be Used?

Tencel is an adaptable textile, and can be used across a wide range of applications in fashion. It can be made to look silky, hanging with a beautiful drape. It can be knitted into a fine material that sits close to the skin, wicking moisture from the body and even supporting thermal regulation. This makes it perfect for keeping you both warm and cool when you need it most. For this reason, it’s perfect for activewear, floaty high summer dresses and undergarments. When Tencel is made into a thicker yarn, it can be knitted into more chunky sweaters, scarves and other winter warmers. It’s a real all-rounder.

How is Tencel Made?

Tencel is a cellulosic fiber derived from wool pulp. That sounds complicated, and it is a little bit! Essentially, wood from trees is chipped into little pieces that are then cooked under high pressure alongside sodium hydroxide and sulfide liquor. This wood pulp is then dissolved in an amine oxide solution, turning the pulp into a sticky kind of liquid that is forced through a spinneret, to produce a fiber that can be woven into fabric, or spun into yarn. A spinneret is also what spiders produce their silky webs through, so imagine a man-made, machine version of that.

This process is how all Lyocell fabrics are made. Tencel is actually a brand name for a specific kind of lyocell. The differences between other lyocells and Tencel are extremely important to the material’s best sustainability credentials. Tencel also has created a modal fabric, which is similar but is made of a thinner yarn with a more delicate touch.

Tencel is produced from sustainably managed wood sources. Basically, this means that the Eucalyptus trees that Tencel is made of are not only fast-growing but grown specifically for the creation of the material or in areas that are not old and home to great levels of biodiverse life - forest-dwelling animals, fungi, mosses and so on. This is really important because, according to Canopy, over 150 million trees are logged each year for cellulosic fabric production, and this has resulted in less than a mere 20% of the world’s most ancient forests staying intact in tracts large enough to maintain biological diversity. Biodiversity is the basis of all healthy life on this planet, so this is a huge problem. Many brands and fabric producers don’t know, or don’t care where their wood pulp is sourced from, meaning that forests in Indonesia, Canada and even the Amazon Rainforest is logged for the sake of fashion. Tencel is far safer.

Another significant difference between any old Lyocell material and Tencel, is that Tencel is made in an award-winning closed-loop production process. This means that more than 99% of the solvent chemicals and water used in this complex production process are recovered, recycled and reused. This is great because it almost totally eliminates water contamination in areas surrounding production.

What Makes Tencel Sustainable?

We now know that Tencel is the most sustainable kind of Lyocell fabric. In fact, data from the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Material Sustainability Index shows that the material has almost four and a half times less of an impact during production, when we consider global warming potential, chemistry, water usage, and other influences.

But how sustainable is Tencel in general, and compared to other materials? This same sustainability index, which offers the most reputable and reliable material production impact data we have right now, can tell us. Even ‘regular’ Lyocell fabric is shown to be less harmful and impactful to produce than silk, hemp, conventional cotton, wool, modal, viscose, rayon and even organic cotton! Talk about ranking well.

The reason for this strong ranking is that water usage is extremely low, especially compared to cotton, due to the recycling process Tencel uses. Far less greenhouse gas emissions are associated with the material’s production, compared to emissions in silk and wool supply chains.

Eutrophication is when pollution causes more nutrients to flow into waterways, ultimately depleting the water of oxygen and killing the plant and animal life within it. This is another hidden problem in the fashion industry. When fabrics are produced, too often some of the chemicals, and even the organic matter - like feces, dirt and grease cleaned off of wool - are released into waterways, harming them. Again, Tencel’s closed-loop production process saves the day here, ensuring that eutrophication is a very minimal problem.

The final reason Tencel is sustainable is the most simple. It’s biodegradable and compostable! If you have a t-shirt made of Tencel and you have worn it to death, you could put it in the ground, and it would break down into the soil without harming the planet. Now that’s a truly closed loop that aligns with nature.

The Cons of Tencel

The pros of Tencel are clear: it can be used in all sorts of intelligent and beautiful ways, while leaving a fairly light footprint on the planet we all need to survive and thrive. But what about the cons? Is there anything wrong with Tencel?

The first thing we need to consider, Tencel production still requires us to take from the Earth. We live on a finite planet - there aren’t never-ending amounts of trees, soil, water and other elements for us to take without consequence. This means that while Tencel is a far more sustainable material than most, the most environmentally conscious choice we, and the fashion industry, can make is to slow down. Buying lots of Tencel clothes will have more of an impact on the planet than buying less, buying mindfully, and caring for the clothes that we already have. Recycled materials, like recycled cotton, are also more sustainable for this reason.

Another element to consider, Tencel is often blended with other materials. When Tencel is a yarn, it can be woven into a fabric alongside other yarns. For example, Tencel could be combined with an elasticated yarn to bring extra stretch to a garment. Tencel could also be blended with a synthetic material like nylon.

The problem here, Tencel is then no longer biodegradable. Too, that synthetic-Tencel blend garment will now shed tiny pieces of micro-plastic when it’s washed, harming the ocean. Watch out for faster fashion brands using a small percentage of Tencel in their primarily synthetic materials and using the fabric name to green-wash the product into seeming more eco-friendly than it truly is!

Sustainable Brands Using Tencel

Lucky for us, there are lots of ethically made, sustainable brands that are using Tencel to make genuinely better clothing. Below, you’ll find some of these brands. If they’re listed, they’re treating their garment workers fairly, or far more fairly than most (there’s always room for improvement). They’re also consciously producing clothing that is more sustainable at a slower pace.

Kings of Indigo

This brand, rated ‘Great’ by Good On You and their ethical brand directory, has pants, shirts, jeans and dresses made of Tencel. The brand has both masculine and feminine styles. A lot of Kings of Indigo’s Tencel garments are 100% Tencel or blended with other compostable fabrics, ensuring that biodegradability and sustainability remains intact. The brand also publishes information about where their fabrics are milled and their garments are made - a win for transparency!

Thought

Thought is an ethically made brand that uses a whole range of naturally derived, more sustainable materials - Tencel included.

The brand uses Tencel in their beautiful, billowy print dresses, skirts and shirts.

In 2020, 9% of Thought’s collection was made of Tencel.

This is an exciting stat, as many brands offer a far smaller range of Tencel options.

Organic Basics

This brand, catering to both masculine and feminine people, has a selection of Tencel underwear, long johns, boxers, bralettes, dresses, t-shirts, jersey shorts, singlets, and tight turtlenecks to get comfortable in. With a wide selection of ethically made garments, there’s something for lots of people.

Some of these garments are 100% Tencel, but products like underwear need a small amount - about 5% - elastane in them to keep them up!

Amour Vert

This brand sells a lovely selection of garments made of Tencel, and fabrics that blend Tencel with other biodegradable, more sustainable fibers like organic cotton and linen.

With shirts, blouses, pants and even a recycled polyester lined, 100% Tencel twill blazer available, this is another ethically produced brand with gorgeous options.

ArmedAngels

Another fair fashion brand, ArmedAngels has a large selection of Tencel clothing.

The brand, which helpfully labels which of their garments are PETA certified as vegan, sells Tencel jumpsuits, dresses, cardigans, boxers, underwear, bralettes, pants and shirts.

Armed Angel has transparent labeling and lets you know when a Tencel product is made of a blend with another more eco-conscious material while you scroll.

Eileen Fisher

A seriously sustainability-driven brand, Eileen Fisher has a wide selection of dress designs, turtle necks, jumpsuits, shirts, pants and jackets made of Tencel, and Tencel blends.

The brand only blends Tencel with other biodegradable materials, to ensure garments have an end of life that doesn’t involve sitting in landfill for hundreds of years.

Emma Håkansson is the founder and director of Collective Fashion Justice which seeks to create a total ethics fashion system that prioritizes the life and wellbeing of non-human and human animals, as well as the planet, before profit and production. She has written countless articles on ethics, sustainability, and fashion, and has two books due out over the next two years.

Fabrics & Certifications2Emma HåkanssonMarch 31, 2021 Comment