Posts in Fashion
New California Bill Attempts to Tackle Fashion's Textile Waste
 

The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024

Behind all the glamor, the fashion industry has a (let’s be honest, pretty well-known) dirty secret. The industry accounts for roughly 10% of global emissions - and is more than the aviation and shipping industries combined, which is crazy! Plus, its environmental footprint doesn’t stop there - it fares no better when it comes to waste generation and ranks among the top contributors.  

Well, what’s to blame? The meteoric rise of fast fashion and short-lived fashion cycles encourage high-volume consumption of cheap, low-quality clothes that are only worn a handful of times before they are tossed. 

The Problem with Fashion Today

Think about it - how many pieces of clothing have you bought in your lifetime? You may try to donate or resell some, but do you know where they eventually end up? Even if you buy from sustainable brands (which we love to see!), the question remains - where do these clothes ultimately go? You guessed right. 

A staggering 85% of clothes and textiles eventually end up in incinerators or landfills - where they not only release methane as they decompose, but also most contain synthetic chemicals and dyes which leach into the soil and water.And while 95% of materials used in clothes are recyclable, only 15% actually get reused or recycled.

How Can We Help Fix The Problem of Textile Waste?

But all is not doom and gloom in the fashion world. A groundbreaking new California bill, the first of its kind, attempts to tackle this ever-growing problem of fashion and textile waste (and trust us, it’s piling up). And better yet, it places the burden on the fashion industry, not individual consumers. The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 and the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) program that it establishes will require producers of clothing, bedding, towels, and upholstery to set up and fund a California-wide program for reusing, repairing, and recycling their products. 

California Democratic State Senator Josh Newman sponsored the bill, which was met with widespread support and was passed by state legislators in August. The bill had endorsements from environmental organizations and retailers alike, including Ikea, Everlane, and Goodwill. Proponents of the bill are optimistic that the EPR program is the starting point for transitioning the industry to a more sustainable and circular economy, which is no small feat. Led by the state’s recycling department, the bill will do this by providing incentives to producers to adopt greener practices and work on more eco-friendly designs. It’ll also make the manufacturers responsible for their products from start to finish, ensuring less waste along the way. 

While this sounds promising, there has been some concern that the cost will ultimately fall on consumers in the form of increased prices. It may also affect smaller and mid-sized brands more than big name brands, who can easily swallow the cost with minimal effect. However, Newman confirmed that consumers shouldn’t see any increased costs due to this program, and estimated that total cost to producers shouldn’t exceed 10 cents per garment. 

Smaller sustainable brands also seem to be on board. Yotam Soloman, founder of LA-based gender-inclusive brand Virtue, supports the new bill. “I think [California’s new law] is something that should have been done a long time ago,” he said. “Unfortunately, this industry that allowed this to happen.”

The earliest the program will be operational is 2028. While the fashion industry still has a long, long way to go, moves like this are definitely a step in the right direction! 


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Report Reveals that Nearly a Quarter of the World's Biggest Fashion Brands Disclose Nothing on Decarbonization
 

Fashion Brands & Lack of Transparency on decarbonization Efforts

Despite ample pressure from activists, transparency is far from standard practice in the fashion industry. Yet, if there is something brands are remarkably tight-lipped about, it is their adherence to climate and energy-related policies. This lack of transparency and commitment is what emerges from the report 'What Fuels Fashion?' a special edition of Fashion Revolution's 'Fashion Transparency Index.' 

The 'What Fuels Fashion?' report focuses on five themes: accountability, decarbonization, energy procurement, financing decarbonization, Just Transition, and advocacy. The industry approach to these is assessed in the report by zooming in on the publicly disclosed information shared by 250 of the world's largest fashion companies. 

The authors' choice to include only info and data in the public domain is no coincidence. That is the type of information that shareholders can use to drive the change needed in the industry. 

Transition away from fossil fuels is needed, but big brands are still falling short 

The amount of greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) produced by the fashion industry is enormous: about 2.1 billion tonsin 2018. At its current pace, this sector is on its way to keeping its emissions nearly double what's needed to remain within the 1.5-degree pathway. In spite of this, the report revealed how breaking away from the cause of this issue, fossil fuels, is not a priority for these big fashion brands. 

Of the 117 fashion companies with publicly disclosed decarbonization targets, merely 105 disclose their progress toward their goals. 24% of the major fashion brands don't disclose anything on decarbonization, with 60% scoring 0% in the 'What Fuels Fashion?' report decarbonization section. In addition, less than 1% of these top brands disclose a target to electrify all energy-intensive manufacturing processes where feasible across the supply chain. 

These data paint a grim picture, as according to the SBTi's Corporate Net-ZeroStandard, a climate-science-based framework for corporate net-zero, most businesses will have to reduce their GHG emissions by at least 90% to achieve net zero. 

Transparency in terms of energy consumption is also lacking. 95% do not disclose an energy consumption breakdown by country in the supply chain, and 96% do not share a breakdown of energy consumption by supply chain process. With coal being the most carbon-intensive fossil fuel, a phaseout from it is a crucial part of progress toward climate targets, but just 14% of fashion brands disclosed commitments to phasing out coal in their supply chain. 

The industry, though, does not support the fossil fuel industry just through its energy consumption but also via the materials it utilizes. According to the Changing Markets Foundation, synthetic fibers, ubiquitous in the fast fashion industry, make up 1.35% of global oil consumption. In this context, just 33% of these fashion companies share the breakdown of the fibers they source annually.  

What is needed for decarbonization and a just transition? 

The climate crisis directly impacts workers. By 2030, it is estimated that the total working hours worldwide could decrease by 2.2% because of climate crisis-induced high temperatures. The extreme weather caused by the climatecould also prevent the creation of 1 million new jobs in the apparel industry, according to a report by the GLI and Schroders.

The colonial, profit-driven business model of big fashion brands contributes to a climate crisis that directly impacts the livelihoods and well-being of workers, including garment ones. In the face of the climate crisis's burden on garment workers, only 3% of the companies analyzed in the report disclose what they are doing to compensate workers impacted by the climate crisis economically. 

From the 'What Fuels Fashion? 'report, it is clear that the fashion industry has to decarbonize in a socially sustainable way across its value chain. The report asks large fashion brands to invest at least 2% of their yearly revenue into decarbonization and Just Transition efforts to achieve this goal. «By investing at least 2% of their revenue into clean, renewable energy and upskilling and supporting workers, fashion could simultaneously curb the impacts of the climate crisis and reduce poverty and inequality within their supply chains. Climate breakdown is avoidable because we have the solution - and big fashion can certainly afford it,» said Maeve Galvin, the Global Policy and Campaigns Director at Fashion Revolution, to the press.


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


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Holding Fashion Brands Accountable With The #SpeakVolumes Campaign
 

The #SpeakVolumes campaign

In this age of information, there is one unanswered question central to the issue of fast fashion. How many clothes are made every year? We don't have an exact number; we have varying estimates. Calculating the number of clothes every brand on Earth produces annually might sound like an arduous task, but how many clothes a brand creates shouldn't be a secret. Still, according to the non-profit movement Fashion Revolution, 89% of the world's largest brands don't share their production volumes with the public.  

This lack of transparency hides a reality of overproduction and overconsumption, numbers likely too big for the public not to visualize the sheer amount of waste these companies generate yearly. Transparency on annual production volumes, like transparency as a whole, is a single piece of the puzzle of the complex systemic and structural change in the fashion industry. Yet, data is essential to assessing and tackling the problem of fashion's environmental and social impact. This data gap is precisely what the #SpeakVolumes campaign is trying to rectify. 

What is the #Speak Volumes campaign?  

The #Speak Volumes campaign is an initiative run by The Or Foundation, a charity that has been working between the United Kingdom and Ghana since 2011. The #SpeakVolumes campaign is their latest active campaign running since 2023 in parallel with their #StopWasteColonialism campaign, and more than 90 fashion industry insiders have endorsed it. 

This campaign focuses on transparency and accountability regarding fashion brands' annual production volumes. To do so, the Or Foundation has organized an open call to global industry giants to make transparency on production volumes the new normal in this sector.

The choice to ask brands to publish production volumes is not coincidental. This piece of data is needed not only for the development of adequate policies pushing a shift from a linear economy to a circular one, but production volumes are also something that affects all the actors along the fashion value chain, and it's directly connected to the issue of textile waste. In addition, this is a piece of info that is pretty easy for fashion companies to calculate. 

How is the campaign trying to achieve its goals?

The Or Foundation sent their open letter to big fast fashion brands like Nike, Gap, and Primark in August 2024. Artist Jeremy Hutchison also hand-delivered this letter as the "Textile Zombie" in 2023 to the British headquarters of Boohoo, Marks and Spencer, Adidas, George, Primark, New Look, Asos, Puma, and Tu clothing. People can also participate in this initiative by either emailing or delivering the letter in person to the brands nominated in the campaign. 

To share the campaign, they organized the 'I Can Count, Why Can't You?' social media challenge that people can participate in by counting the number of garments in their wardrobes. The #SpeakVolumes campaign emphasizes the necessity for brands to #SpeakVolumes by sharing the number of products created in a year, not by weight, as that doesn't communicate in detail enough to put in place appropriate circular economy initiatives. When it comes to sustainable fashion advocacy, knowledge is always power. 


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


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Black Public Media's #ShopLikeNana Campaign Invites Us to Fight Back Against Fast Fashion
 

Black Public Media's #ShopLikeNana campaign

According to Earth.org, 92 million tonnes of textile waste end up in landfills every year, and this number is expected to reach 134 million by the end of the decade if nothing is done to change that trend. 

This raises many environmental issues, but that is not all. Landfills present numerous public health concerns, and solid waste facilities tend to be disproportionately located in low-income communities of color.

To combat this sad reality, Harlem-based nonprofit Black Public Media has partnered with Paramount Plus to launch #ShopLikeNana, the third iteration of its BE HEARD social media campaign designed to bring attention to issues facing Black communities.

This campaign aims to raise awareness about the disastrous consequences of the rise of fast fashion in recent years and the heavy burden it places on the planet. It offers interesting suggestions on how to become a mindful shopper and highlights the environmental benefits of giving used apparel a new life. 

#ShopLikeNana encourages us to shop in our grandmother’s closet since it is a great way to acquire new pieces without contributing to textile waste or generating more harmful manufacturing emissions. Not only that, but it also allows us to save money, find good quality timeless treasures, and celebrate time-honored sustainability practices. 

The campaign also invites us to shop our own closets, share pieces with loved ones, and snag bargains at our local thrift stores. Whether we decide to keep our “new” clothing as is or upcycle it into something entirely different, we are actively fighting back against fast fashion and supporting ethical, sustainable fashion. 

By changing the way we shop and shifting our approach to fashion, we are doing our part to combat textile waste and climate change. We are making the climate justice movement more powerful!

How can you participate and #ShopLikeNana? 

If you need new clothes or simply would like to experiment with new pieces, refrain from buying new and opt for second-hand clothing instead. 

First, go through your closet and see if you can find new ways to style your pieces. You may for instance want to add some accessories or mix and match your clothes in new ways to make things more interesting. You can even upcycle them into something different to give them a new life! 

Also, ask your friends or relatives (your grandma included!) if they would like to do a clothing swap. That way, you can give away your rarely-worn pieces if they want them, and you can add variety to your wardrobe with their unwanted clothes. Your loved ones might even share with you the history of their pieces, such as the memories they’ve made while wearing them. Styling these clothes every day will feel very special afterward!  

Another great option is to visit your local thrift store or shop second-hand on platforms like eBay, ThreadUp, or Poshmark. You’ll be able to find both modern and vintage clothes at a fraction of their original price! 

Don’t be afraid to be creative with your “new” pieces and have fun rediscovering old styles. 

Finally, share your new-to-you clothes on social media and show the world how cool shopping sustainably is! Tag your posts #ShopLikeNana to help the campaign reach new people and spread its message.


About the Author

Eva Astoul is a French freelance writer, specializing in content related to sustainability, simple living, and a growth-focused healthy lifestyle. She runs her own blog, Green With Less, to inspire people to live a more minimalist and sustainable life.


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Where Sustainability Meets the Runway: Highlights from NYFW
 

Sustainable Fashion at NYFW

This season’s New York Fashion Week took a major leap toward a more sustainable future, blending high fashion with eco-consciousness in the most fabulous way possible. The week was filled with runway moments that didn’t just wow us aesthetically but also made us rethink fashion’s impact on the planet.

Pre-loved Fashion Takes Center Stage

This season saw chic, repurposed ensembles take center stage at one of the most glamorous events of the year. eBay stepped up as a fashion force by spotlighting pre-loved pieces on the runway. Styled by TikTok sensation Wisdom Kaye, the collection made it clear that secondhand doesn’t mean second best. Remake, a nonprofit dedicated to sustainable fashion, also celebrated pre-loved clothing with its runway featuring upcycled, vintage, and secondhand garments. Sizzle Arts, a nonprofit dedicated to advancing sustainability and innovation within the arts community, brought together talented designers, each tasked with creating a unique garment using pre-existing fabrics to walk the runway. These shows were a love letter to the idea that fashion doesn't need to be new to be breathtaking, bringing circular fashion to the forefront. 

#SpeakVolumes

Meanwhile, The Or Foundation’s #SpeakVolumes campaign made a bold statement in Times Square, demanding that brands reveal just how much they produce annually. The campaign tackled the issue of overproduction head-on, with massive screens reminding us that the fashion industry’s obsession with "more" is fueling a global crisis of waste. It was impossible to ignore, sending a clear message to the industry: transparency is the new luxury.

Fighting for Fashion Workers

Models took a stand during NYFW, hand-delivering over 100 letters to New York Governor Kathy Hochul, urging her to sign the Fashion Workers Act into law. This bill promises protections for models who have long been left vulnerable to exploitation, and its passage would be a game-changer for creatives in the industry. It’s a powerful reminder that true sustainability must include ethical treatment of the people behind the garments.

Photography by Kenzie King for Melke

NYFW Designers Showcasing Sustainable Fashion

From established to new and upcoming designers, so many of the NYFW designers showcased an impressive commitment to sustainability. Notable highlights include: 

  • Collina Strada: Known for its dedication to using deadstock and recycled materials, Collina Strada once again embraced sustainability with its SS25 collection titled Touch Grass.” Set against the natural backdrop of Marble Cemetery, the show was a playful yet poignant reminder to reconnect with nature. The inclusion of sustainable designer Mara Hoffman and the Green Lady of Brooklyn added further eco-conscious appeal.

  • Sami Miro Vintage: Sami Miro Vintage continued its zero-waste ethos by creating pieces from deadstock fabrics and recycled materials. The collection was a standout for its sustainable approach, demonstrating that eco-friendly design can be both innovative and effortlessly chic.

  • Grace Ling: Pioneering the future of sustainable design, Grace Ling used 3D printing techniques to create garments with minimal waste. By leveraging technology to reduce material usage, her collection highlights how innovation and sustainability can go hand in hand, setting a new standard for eco-friendly fashion production.

  • Rentrayage: At Rentrayage, sustainability is all about transformation. The brand showcased its mastery of upcycling, turning vintage fabrics and discarded clothing into fresh, modern pieces. This approach breathes new life into materials that would otherwise end up in landfills.

  • Melke: Melke’s SS25 collection, “The Book Fair,” was a nostalgic, playful nod to the Scholastic book fairs of the ’90s and early 2000s, crafted with biodegradable fabrics and a commitment to ethical production. Upcycled school supplies were reimagined as chandelier eraser necklaces and pencil dresses, bringing sustainability to the forefront through whimsical, clever designs.

  • Eckhaus Latta: Eckhaus Latta stands out for its transparent production processes and use of recycled materials. The brand continues to set an example in sustainable fashion, prioritizing both ethics and aesthetics.

  • Ronald van der Kemp: Pushing the boundaries of upcycled couture, Ronald van der Kemp transformed discarded textiles and vintage materials into luxurious, one-of-a-kind pieces. His work proves that sustainability and high fashion can coexist beautifully, offering a glimpse into the future of eco-conscious couture.

  • Mila Sullivan: Known for her unique take on upcycling, Mila Sullivan’s SS25 collection, “Dirtbag Dream Beach,” used a mix of vintage, thrifted, and discarded fabrics. The collection transported us to a dreamy, neon-infused beach world, showcasing how unconventional materials can be repurposed to create fashion that is both artistic and sustainable.

  • LoveShackFancy: With its Power to the Pretty collection, LoveShackFancy embraced upcycled vintage accessories and remnant fabrics, demonstrating that timeless elegance and sustainability are not mutually exclusive.

  • Caroline Zimbalist: As a leader in biomaterial innovation, Caroline Zimbalist’s SS25 collection featured sculptural pieces made from her patent-pending bioplastic. Inspired by nature, her creations are not only visually stunning but also biodegradable.

  • JRAT: Embracing a zero-waste philosophy, JRAT’s collection highlighted intricate bead and button details, many of which were lovingly collected by the designer’s grandmother and aunt.

  • Abacaxi: Drawing from her Indian heritage, designer Sheena Sood infused traditional techniques like handloom weaving into her “Mystic” collection. The use of Peruvian openwork hand-machine knits showcased a commitment to sustainability through artisanal craftsmanship and a continued exploration of texture and color.

  • Christian Siriano: Bringing recycled fabrics into the luxury sphere, Christian Siriano incorporated Circ Lyocell, a recycled textile with the feel of silk, into his SS25 collection. This marked the first time this innovative material was used at NYFW.

  • Presley Oldham: Making his NYFW debut, Presley Oldham stayed true to his sustainable ethos with a collection of handcrafted pearl and glass bead jewelry. He also honored his grandmother by repurposing intricate beaded flowers into statement tops, blending family heritage with eco-conscious design.


About the Author

Grace Olyphant is a passionate advocate for sustainable fashion, dedicated to helping people embrace eco-conscious living without sacrificing style. With a background in personal styling and red carpet fashion, Grace combines her expertise with a commitment to sustainability, inspiring others to make thoughtful choices in their wardrobe. Follow her journey on Instagram @graceolyphant, and explore her insights on sustainable fashion and lifestyle on her blog at graceolyphant.com.


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