What Is Cupro Fabric & Is It Sustainable?

Cupro – the versatile and luxurious fabric that’s making waves in the sustainable fashion world! If you’re curious about what cupro is, how it’s made, and its impact on the environment, you’ve come to the right place.

So what exactly is cupro? Well, think of it as a cousin to rayon and silk, known for its silky texture and ability to drape nicely. But what sets cupro apart is its unique production process, which involves recycling cotton linter – a byproduct of the cotton industry.

We’ll dive deeper into the history and manufacturing process of cupro in this blog, and uncover some of the sustainability challenges associated with cupro production and why it might not always be the most eco-friendly choice.

Cupro at a Glance

Before we get into the details, here’s the quick version of what you should know about cupro:

What is cupro? A regenerated cellulose fiber often used as a silk-like alternative.

What is it made from? Cotton linter, the tiny fibers left on cotton seeds after the longer cotton fibers are removed.

Is cupro natural or synthetic? Neither, exactly. Cupro starts with plant-based cellulose, but it goes through significant processing to become a wearable fiber, so it’s considered a regenerated or man-made cellulosic fiber.

What does cupro feel like? Soft, smooth, lightweight and silky, which is why you’ll often find it used for dresses, blouses and linings.

Is cupro biodegradable? The cellulose-based fiber can biodegrade under the right conditions, although dyes, finishes, fabric blends and disposal conditions all matter.

Is cupro sustainable? It can be a more responsible fabric choice, particularly because it makes use of cotton linter that might otherwise be considered a byproduct. However, the manufacturing process matters just as much as the raw material.

Our take: Cupro can be a promising alternative to silk, especially when it comes from a transparent and responsibly managed production process. That said, I generally prioritize fabrics with strong traceability and well-documented manufacturing, such as responsibly produced lyocell.

What Is Cupro Fabric?

Cupro is a soft, silky fabric made from regenerated cellulose, usually derived from cotton linter. Cotton linter is made up of the tiny fibers that remain attached to cotton seeds after the longer fibers used to make cotton fabric have been removed. Rather than letting this leftover material go to waste, it can be processed and transformed into a smooth, lightweight fiber that looks and feels a lot like silk. This is one reason you’ll sometimes see cupro marketed as a more affordable or vegan alternative to silk.

But while cupro starts with a plant-based material, it isn’t a natural fiber in the same way cotton, linen or hemp are. The cellulose has to go through a chemical process before it becomes the cupro fiber we wear, putting it in the same broader family of regenerated cellulosic fibers as viscose, modal and lyocell.

Cupro can be a promising fabric, especially when it’s made using a byproduct of cotton production, but that doesn’t automatically make every cupro garment sustainable. As with most regenerated fibers, how and where it’s manufactured matters just as much as what it’s made from.

What Is Cupro Made From?

Cupro is typically made from cotton linter, the tiny, fluffy fibers left behind on cotton seeds after the longer cotton fibers have been removed for textile production. These short fibers aren’t usually suitable for spinning into traditional cotton fabric, but they are still rich in cellulose. To make cupro, that cellulose is extracted, dissolved using a chemical process and then regenerated into fine, smooth fibers that can be spun into fabric.

I love the idea of making use of a material that might otherwise be considered a byproduct of cotton production, but it’s important to remember that using a leftover material doesn’t automatically make a fabric sustainable. The chemicals used, how they’re managed, where the cotton comes from and the overall manufacturing process all matter when evaluating cupro’s environmental impact.

Is Cupro a Natural Fiber?

Not exactly. While cupro starts with plant-based cellulose from cotton linter, it isn’t considered a natural fiber in the same way as cotton, linen, hemp or wool. Cupro has to go through significant chemical processing to transform that cellulose into a wearable fiber. Because of this, it’s classified as a regenerated cellulosic fiber (semi-synthetic), putting it in the same general family as viscose, modal and lyocell.

This distinction is important because fabrics made from plants aren’t automatically “natural.” I see this confusion a lot with bamboo, too. The raw material may come from nature, but the process used to turn it into fabric can completely change how we should classify and evaluate it. So, while cupro is plant-derived, it’s not a natural fiber. And when it comes to sustainability, I always look beyond the raw material and consider how the finished fiber is actually made.

How is Cupro Made?

Cupro, short for cuprammonium rayon, is derived from natural cellulose fibers found in cotton linter, a byproduct of the cotton industry. The process of creating cupro involves several chemical treatments to transform these cellulose fibers into a textile.

First, the cotton linter is dissolved in a cuprammonium solution, typically composed of copper oxide and ammonia. This solution breaks down the cellulose fibers, forming a viscous liquid known as viscose. Next, the viscose solution is extruded through spinnerets into a coagulating bath, usually containing sulfuric acid or a similar acidic solution. This bath solidifies the viscose into continuous filaments, which are then washed to remove any residual chemicals. Finally, the filaments are stretched, dried, and processed into fibers, which can be spun into yarns and woven or knitted into fabric. The resulting cupro fabric is a popular choice for clothing that needs to drape like dresses, skirts and blouses.

What Does Cupro Feel Like?

Cupro is known for its soft, smooth and silky feel. It’s lightweight with a beautiful drape, which is why it’s often compared to silk and used for dresses, blouses, skirts and garment linings. It also tends to feel cool and comfortable against the skin, making it a nice option for warmer weather or pieces you want to feel a little more luxurious without using traditional silk. If you’ve worn viscose or lyocell before, cupro may feel somewhat familiar, but it typically has an especially smooth, fluid finish. It’s one of those fabrics that can look and feel quite elevated, even though it starts with humble cotton linter.

Is Cupro Breathable?

Yes, cupro is generally considered a breathable and lightweight fabric, which is one reason it’s so comfortable to wear in warmer weather. Because cupro is made from cellulose, it can absorb moisture and help move it away from the skin rather than trapping heat the way many synthetic fabrics can. Its soft, fluid construction also tends to feel cool and comfortable against the body.

That said, breathability can vary depending on how the fabric is woven, its weight and whether cupro is blended with other fibers. A lightweight 100% cupro blouse, for example, will likely feel very different from a heavier cupro-polyester blend. If you’re looking for a silky fabric that still feels light and breathable, cupro can be a nice option, especially compared with petroleum-based synthetics like polyester.

Is Cupro Sustainable?

While it is derived from natural cellulose fibers, cupro’s sustainability is a topic of debate due to its manufacturing process and the concerns associated with the environmental impacts. On the one hand, cupro utilizes a waste product of cotton production and therefore helps to reduce the overall waste of the cotton industry. It is also a good alternative to silk for vegans as silk requires the breeding and killing of silkworms. 

However, the chemicals used to create cupro include copper oxide, ammonia, and caustic soda. These can be harmful to the textile workers who handle the production and also pose a threat to the environment as they can pollute waterways if the wastewater from production is not responsibly managed. Additionally, the coagulating bath often contains sulfuric acid, a highly corrosive substance that poses risks to both human health and ecosystems.

Cupro production involves significant water usage and energy consumption, which contributes to its overall carbon footprint. While cupro is biodegradable and can be considered a renewable resource, its sustainability is undermined by the chemical-intensive production process and the resulting environmental impacts. As a result, there is growing interest in developing more eco-friendly methods to cupro production.

If you’re considering buying clothing made with cupro, it’s worth checking out where they get their cupro from and what it’s blended with. You can also find similar materials like TENCEL Lyocell and recycled satin that make great alternatives to silk.

The Pros & Cons of Cupro Fabric

Like most fabrics, cupro isn’t perfect. I think it has some genuinely interesting benefits, particularly because it can make use of cotton linter that might otherwise be treated as a byproduct. But because cupro is a regenerated cellulosic fiber, how it’s manufactured matters just as much as what it’s made from.

Pros of Cupro

• Uses cotton linter: Cupro typically makes use of the short fibers left on cotton seeds after the longer fibers have been removed.
• Soft and silky: It has a smooth, luxurious feel that’s often compared to silk.
• Lightweight and breathable: Cupro can feel cool and comfortable against the skin, making it a great option for warmer weather.
• Beautiful drape: Its fluid feel works particularly well for dresses, skirts, blouses and linings.
• Plant-derived: Unlike polyester and other petroleum-based synthetics, cupro begins with cellulose from cotton.
• Can biodegrade under the right conditions: Unblended cupro is cellulose-based, although dyes, finishes and disposal conditions can affect biodegradability.

Cons of Cupro

• Requires chemical processing: Cupro doesn’t go directly from cotton linter to fabric. The cellulose has to be dissolved and regenerated using a chemical-intensive manufacturing process.
• Not a natural fiber: Despite its plant-based origin, cupro is a man-made regenerated cellulosic fiber.
• Manufacturing transparency matters: A plant-derived raw material doesn’t automatically equal a sustainable finished fabric. Chemical management and production practices are incredibly important.
• Can require more delicate care: Cupro isn’t always as easy to care for as more durable natural fibers like cotton or hemp.
• Not all cupro is equally sustainable: As with viscose, modal and lyocell, I wouldn’t judge cupro based on the fiber name alone. I want to know who made it, how it was processed and what standards were used along the way.

Overall, cupro has a lot going for it, but I wouldn’t call it inherently sustainable. When responsibly produced, it can be an interesting alternative to silk or petroleum-based synthetics, but transparency around the manufacturing process is key.

Is Cupro Biodegradable?

Cupro is a cellulose-based fiber, so it can biodegrade under the right conditions. Unlike petroleum-based synthetics such as polyester or nylon, the cupro fiber itself isn’t made from plastic and won’t persist in the environment in quite the same way.

However, I wouldn’t simply call every cupro garment “biodegradable.” The finished piece may contain synthetic blends, dyes, finishes, elastane, buttons, zippers or other materials that don’t break down the same way. Where and how a garment is disposed of also makes a big difference.

So, while biodegradability is a potential benefit of cupro, I don’t think it should be used as a blanket sustainability claim. As always, I would rather see a garment worn and loved for as long as possible before we’re worrying about how quickly it can break down at the end of its life.

Is Cupro Non-Toxic?

I wouldn’t automatically label cupro as a non-toxic fabric simply because it starts with plant-based cellulose. Making cupro requires chemical processing to dissolve the cotton-derived cellulose and regenerate it into a wearable fiber, so how those chemicals are handled during manufacturing matters.

That said, there is an important distinction between chemicals used during textile production and what remains in the finished garment. A chemically intensive manufacturing process doesn’t necessarily mean that wearing a cupro dress exposes you to those same chemicals.

If you’re concerned about substances in the clothing you wear, I would look for additional testing or certifications such as OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, which tests finished textiles for specified harmful substances. Just remember that OEKO-TEX certification doesn’t mean a fabric is organic, natural or automatically sustainable.

For me, cupro falls into the same category as many regenerated cellulosic fibers: I want more information before calling it non-toxic. Transparency around the manufacturer, chemical management, dyes and finishes can tell us much more than the word “cupro” on a fabric label alone.

What Is Bemberg™ Cupro?

Bemberg™ is a branded cupro fiber made by the Japanese company Asahi Kasei. Like other cupro, it is a regenerated cellulosic fiber made from cotton linter, the tiny fibers left on cotton seeds after the longer cotton fibers have been removed. What makes Bemberg™ especially interesting from a sustainability perspective is the attention given to its manufacturing process. Asahi Kasei reports using cotton linter as its cellulose source and recovering and reusing materials used during production rather than simply treating cupro’s plant-based origin as enough to call the fiber sustainable.

You’ll often find Bemberg™ used in garment linings, dresses, blouses and other lightweight pieces because it has that signature smooth, silky feel and beautiful drape cupro is known for. For me, Bemberg™ is a good example of why I prefer looking at who actually makes a regenerated fiber and how it’s produced rather than judging a fabric solely by its name. Cupro isn’t automatically sustainable, but greater transparency and responsible chemical management can make a big difference.

How Does Cupro Compare to Other Popular Fabrics?

Cupro vs Viscose

Cupro and viscose are both regenerated cellulosic fibers, meaning they start with plant-based cellulose that is chemically processed into a wearable fiber. The main difference is their raw material and manufacturing process. Cupro is typically made from cotton linter, while viscose is usually made from wood pulp. Both can have a soft, silky feel, but neither is automatically sustainable, the manufacturing process and chemical management matter.

Cupro vs Lyocell

Cupro and lyocell are also regenerated cellulosic fibers, but they’re produced using different processes. Lyocell is typically made from wood pulp and uses a solvent-based process designed to recover and reuse most of the solvent. Because of this, responsibly produced lyocell is generally the option I would prioritize, especially when there is strong sourcing and manufacturing transparency.

Cupro vs TENCEL™

TENCEL™ isn’t a generic fabric but a brand of fibers made by Lenzing, including TENCEL™ Lyocell and TENCEL™ Modal. While both cupro and TENCEL™ fibers are regenerated cellulosics, I generally prefer TENCEL™ Lyocell because its sourcing and manufacturing process are well documented. That doesn’t make all cupro a poor choice, but with regenerated fibers, transparency is incredibly important.

Cupro vs Silk

Cupro is sometimes used as a vegan or more affordable alternative to silk because it has a similarly smooth feel, beautiful drape and subtle sheen. The biggest difference is that silk is a natural animal-derived fiber, while cupro is a man-made cellulosic fiber. If you’re avoiding animal-derived materials, responsibly produced cupro can be an interesting silk alternative, but I wouldn’t automatically consider one more sustainable than the other without looking at how each was produced.

A Brief History of Cupro

Cupro has a foggy history with lots of different claims as to where and when it was first created. Many people claim that production of cuprammonium rayon for textiles started in 1899 in the Vereinigte Glanzstoff Fabriken AG in Oberbruch, Germany, but that it was an improvement by J. P. Bemberg AG in 1904 that made the artificial silk a product comparable to real silk.

Initially used for industrial purposes such as electrical insulation, cupro found its way into the fashion industry during World War I when silk supplies were scarce. Its luxurious feel and silk-like drape made it a popular choice for clothing, particularly in the production of linings, lingerie, and lightweight garments. Throughout the 20th century, cupro became a staple in fashion, valued for its versatility and comfort. As it is derived from a natural fiber, similar to TENCEL Lyocell and viscose, it has been widely adopted by sustainable fashion brands. 

Caring for Cupro

Maintaining and caring for your cupro clothing can help extend the life cycle of your item and avoid it having to be thrown away. There are a few things you can do to look after your clothes made with cupro that can help keep them as smooth and silky as the day you found it!

It’s worth thinking of caring for cupro in a similar way that you would if it were made of silk, as it’s a very similar fabric and requires a certain level of gentle care that other materials don’t always call for. When washing your cupro items, if you can hand wash in cold water with a gentle soap, that works best for this material, and avoid rubbing or wringing out the item. Then you can lay the item flat to dry and reshape while still damp if needed. You can also air dry outside or on a drying rack. You can iron cupro at a low or medium temperature but make sure you iron on the reverse side to avoid the material becoming shiny. If your item is particularly delicate, such as dresses or blouses, you may opt for eco-friendly dry cleaners that can help the item keep its shape and avoid damage during the cleaning process. 

Looking after your clothes in general is a great way to avoid wear and tear and help your items last as long as possible. Here are some other tips to keep your garments fresher for longer:

• Read the care labels: Always check the care labels on your clothing for specific washing instructions. Different fabrics require different treatments.
• Sort clothes before washing: Separate darks from lights and delicate fabrics from sturdier ones to prevent color bleeding and damage.
• Wash in cold water: Using cold water helps preserve colors and prevents shrinkage, especially for delicate garments.
• Use gentle detergents: Opt for mild, eco-friendly detergents to prevent harsh chemicals from damaging fabrics.
• Turn clothes inside out: This protects the outer surface of clothes from friction and fading during washing.
• Air dry when possible: Hang clothes to air dry instead of using the dryer, which can cause shrinkage and damage fibers.
• Store clothes properly: Fold knitwear and delicate items instead of hanging them to maintain their shape. Use padded hangers for structured garments.
• Avoid overwashing: Washing clothes too frequently can cause them to wear out faster. Spot clean when possible and air out clothes between wears.
• Mend and repair: Fix small tears, loose buttons, and loose threads promptly to prevent further damage.

Final Thoughts: Do We Recommend Cupro?

Overall, yes, I think cupro can have a place in a more sustainable wardrobe, but I wouldn’t seek it out simply because it’s plant-derived. I like that cupro can make use of cotton linter, and its soft, silky feel makes it an interesting alternative to petroleum-based synthetics and, for those who avoid animal-derived fibers, silk. However, cupro requires significant processing, so how it’s manufactured matters.

When shopping for cupro, I would prioritize transparent manufacturers like Bemberg™ and brands that provide information about sourcing, chemical management and production. When that information isn’t available, I generally feel more confident choosing responsibly produced lyocell or TENCEL™. And, of course, if you already own cupro? Keep wearing it! The most sustainable wardrobe will always include making good use of the clothes we already have.