Cupro – the versatile and luxurious fabric that’s making waves in the sustainable fashion world! If you’re curious about what cupro is, how it’s made, and its impact on the environment, you’ve come to the right place.

So what exactly is cupro? Well, think of it as a cousin to rayon and silk, known for its silky texture and ability to drape nicely. But what sets cupro apart is its unique production process, which involves recycling cotton linter – a byproduct of the cotton industry.

We’ll dive deeper into the history and manufacturing process of cupro in this blog, and uncover some of the sustainability challenges associated with cupro production and why it might not always be the most eco-friendly choice.

Cupro at a Glance

Before we get into the details, here’s the quick version of what you should know about cupro:

What is cupro? A regenerated cellulose fiber often used as a silk-like alternative.

What is it made from? Cotton linter, the tiny fibers left on cotton seeds after the longer cotton fibers are removed.

Is cupro natural or synthetic? Neither, exactly. Cupro starts with plant-based cellulose, but it goes through significant processing to become a wearable fiber, so it’s considered a regenerated or man-made cellulosic fiber.

What does cupro feel like? Soft, smooth, lightweight and silky, which is why you’ll often find it used for dresses, blouses and linings.

Is cupro biodegradable? The cellulose-based fiber can biodegrade under the right conditions, although dyes, finishes, fabric blends and disposal conditions all matter.

Is cupro sustainable? It can be a more responsible fabric choice, particularly because it makes use of cotton linter that might otherwise be considered a byproduct. However, the manufacturing process matters just as much as the raw material.

Our take: Cupro can be a promising alternative to silk, especially when it comes from a transparent and responsibly managed production process. That said, I generally prioritize fabrics with strong traceability and well-documented manufacturing, such as responsibly produced lyocell and TENCEL™.

What Is Cupro Fabric?

Cupro is a soft, silky fabric made from regenerated cellulose, usually derived from cotton linter. Cotton linter is made up of the tiny fibers that remain attached to cotton seeds after the longer fibers used to make cotton fabric have been removed.

Rather than letting this leftover material go to waste, it can be processed and transformed into a smooth, lightweight fiber that looks and feels a lot like silk. This is one reason you’ll sometimes see cupro marketed as a more affordable or vegan alternative to silk.

But while cupro starts with a plant-based material, it isn’t a natural fiber in the same way cotton, linen or hemp are. The cellulose has to go through a chemical process before it becomes the cupro fiber we wear, putting it in the same broader family of regenerated cellulosic fibers as viscose, modal and lyocell.

Cupro can be a promising fabric, especially when it’s made using a byproduct of cotton production, but that doesn’t automatically make every cupro garment sustainable. As with most regenerated fibers, how and where it’s manufactured matters just as much as what it’s made from.

How is Cupro Made?

Cupro, short for cuprammonium rayon, is derived from natural cellulose fibers found in cotton linter, a byproduct of the cotton industry. The process of creating cupro involves several chemical treatments to transform these cellulose fibers into a textile.

First, the cotton linter is dissolved in a cuprammonium solution, typically composed of copper oxide and ammonia. This solution breaks down the cellulose fibers, forming a viscous liquid known as viscose. Next, the viscose solution is extruded through spinnerets into a coagulating bath, usually containing sulfuric acid or a similar acidic solution. This bath solidifies the viscose into continuous filaments, which are then washed to remove any residual chemicals. Finally, the filaments are stretched, dried, and processed into fibers, which can be spun into yarns and woven or knitted into fabric. The resulting cupro fabric is a popular choice for clothing that needs to drape like dresses, skirts and blouses.

A Brief History of Cupro

Cupro has a foggy history with lots of different claims as to where and when it was first created. Many people claim that production of cuprammonium rayon for textiles started in 1899 in the Vereinigte Glanzstoff Fabriken AG in Oberbruch, Germany, but that it was an improvement by J. P. Bemberg AG in 1904 that made the artificial silk a product comparable to real silk.

Initially used for industrial purposes such as electrical insulation, cupro found its way into the fashion industry during World War I when silk supplies were scarce. Its luxurious feel and silk-like drape made it a popular choice for clothing, particularly in the production of linings, lingerie, and lightweight garments. Throughout the 20th century, cupro became a staple in fashion, valued for its versatility and comfort. As it is derived from a natural fiber, similar to TENCEL Lyocell and viscose, it has been widely adopted by sustainable fashion brands. 

IS CUPRO SUSTAINABLE?

While it is derived from natural cellulose fibers, cupro’s sustainability is a topic of debate due to its manufacturing process and the concerns associated with the environmental impacts. 

On the one hand, cupro utilizes a waste product of cotton production and therefore helps to reduce the overall waste of the cotton industry. It is also a good alternative to silk for vegans as silk requires the breeding and killing of silkworms. 

However, the chemicals used to create cupro include copper oxide, ammonia, and caustic soda. These can be harmful to the textile workers who handle the production and also pose a threat to the environment as they can pollute waterways if the wastewater from production is not responsibly managed. Additionally, the coagulating bath often contains sulfuric acid, a highly corrosive substance that poses risks to both human health and ecosystems.

Cupro production involves significant water usage and energy consumption, which contributes to its overall carbon footprint. While cupro is biodegradable and can be considered a renewable resource, its sustainability is undermined by the chemical-intensive production process and the resulting environmental impacts. As a result, there is growing interest in developing more eco-friendly methods to cupro production.

Cupro is now solely manufactured in Japan by Bemberg, who have since developed a closed-loop system for the material, meaning that any chemicals are extracted and reused multiple times. Bemberg has said “We strictly control the chemical substances used in the manufacturing process and have introduced a closed-loop production system that recovers and reuses copper and ammonia,”. This is a good step forward and you can find out more information on how they make cupro on Bemberg’s information page.

If you’re considering buying clothing made with cupro, it’s worth checking out where they get their cupro from and what it’s blended with. You can also find similar materials like TENCEL Lyocell and recycled satin that make great alternatives to silk.

CARING FOR YOUR CLOTHES

Maintaining and caring for your cupro clothing can help extend the life cycle of your item and avoid it having to be thrown away. There are a few things you can do to look after your clothes made with cupro that can help keep them as smooth and silky as the day you found it!

It’s worth thinking of caring for cupro in a similar way that you would if it were made of silk, as it’s a very similar fabric and requires a certain level of gentle care that other materials don’t always call for. When washing your cupro items, if you can hand wash in cold water with a gentle soap, that works best for this material, and avoid rubbing or wringing out the item. Then you can lay the item flat to dry and reshape while still damp if needed. You can also air dry outside or on a drying rack. You can iron cupro at a low or medium temperature but make sure you iron on the reverse side to avoid the material becoming shiny.

If your item is particularly delicate, such as dresses or blouses, you may opt for eco-friendly dry cleaners that can help the item keep its shape and avoid damage during the cleaning process. 

Looking after your clothes in general is a great way to avoid wear and tear and help your items last as long as possible. Here are some other tips to keep your garments fresher for longer:

• Read the care labels: Always check the care labels on your clothing for specific washing instructions. Different fabrics require different treatments.
• Sort clothes before washing: Separate darks from lights and delicate fabrics from sturdier ones to prevent color bleeding and damage.
• Wash in cold water: Using cold water helps preserve colors and prevents shrinkage, especially for delicate garments.
• Use gentle detergents: Opt for mild, eco-friendly detergents to prevent harsh chemicals from damaging fabrics.
• Turn clothes inside out: This protects the outer surface of clothes from friction and fading during washing.
• Air dry when possible: Hang clothes to air dry instead of using the dryer, which can cause shrinkage and damage fibers.
• Store clothes properly: Fold knitwear and delicate items instead of hanging them to maintain their shape. Use padded hangers for structured garments.
• Avoid overwashing: Washing clothes too frequently can cause them to wear out faster. Spot clean when possible and air out clothes between wears.
• Mend and repair: Fix small tears, loose buttons, and loose threads promptly to prevent further damage.